Before you get started
There are two stages in sharpening katana swords: shitaji togi and shiagi togi. Shitaji togi
or foundation polishing aims to remove unwanted grooves and to refine the overall shape of
the sword.
The sword is to be brushed over a stationary stone. Any new swords have to undergo this
stage, but older ones can get started to next stage. The shiagi togi or finish polishing
aims to even out the surface and to finally produce the shiny gloss. Fine stones with tiny
grits are moved over the blade this time.
Things you need to know
Here is a list of things you need to have.
1. SHARPENING KIT You can buy one at any online store or specialty shops in your locality.
Usually they contain several whetstones, polishing oil, hammer, cloth ball, and wooden jigs.
A manual is also included to provide step-by-step instruction.
2. GRIT is a measure of the abrasives on the sandpaper, stones, or other polishing
materials. English scale is measured in particle size (microns). Take note that the Japanese
grit differs from the US grit. So be careful, select only water stones and sandpapers for
polishing which are measured against Japanese grit standard.
3. SANDPAPER is made from coarse to fine grits as the polishing progresses. A favorite
choice among polishers is silicon carbide abrasive paper.
4. JAPANESE WATER STONES can either be natural or artificial. Natural water stones are
difficult to acquire and if they are obtained, they are expensive. Artificial water stones
are the substitutes, only that the results would vary. The stones have be to wetted before
sharpening and when they become concave for constant friction, they have to be restored to
shape by rubbing them with other stones.
5. JIGS are wooden contraptions that can keep your work stable and steady.
6. OIL would be helpful to keep off dust and rust from the blade while working. It will also
keep the sword’s surface to be with the right moisture for polishing.
Now the real job: Sharpening sword
The first thing that you have to do is to buy sharpening kit. All the things that you may
need are already included in the package, so you do not have to go to far lengths in
procuring everything. However, you need to invest on Japanese water stones of increasingly
finer grits to get your job perfectly. After that, proceed to the following steps:
1. Soak the stones. Japanese water stones are to be wetted before they can be used.
Neutralize the acidity of the water first by sprinkling baking soda (about a fourth of the
cup will do). The stones are to be soaked for around half an hour.
2. Shape the stones. The ideal shape of the stones is convex, but by constant friction it
becomes concave. You need to reshape them back by scraping a stone against another of a
coarser grit.
3. Prepare the wooden jigs. Some sharpeners can do the job standing, others sitting down.
There are some who do it comfortably squatting. Whatever your most comfortable position is,
make sure the wooden jigs would hold the sword and stones strongly.
4. Remove the blade from the scabbard and hilt. Do not rush by pulling things apart
haphazardly. You might not be able to piece everything back together after you are done
polishing. Do not unravel the leather wrap; it is done in a way so intricate that it would
not be easy to wound it back again.
5. Straighten the blade. This is a difficult task because you need to have a good sense of
geometry to get it right. Just remember that Japanese blade surface should be rigidly
straight and not bent, curving gracefully from the base of the tang to the point. You can
straighten the blade by placing the sword on your knee and forcing both ends downward. Use
the wooden jigs for more ways to straighten it.
6. Sharpening. You are now on the first stage, the shitaji togi. Use arato stone (of a
Japanese grit 180), secure it on the floor, and grind the sword against it. Grind
deliberately, slowly, and carefully.
7. More Japanese water stones. Use stones of less coarse grits in the following order:
binsui stone (of grit 300) to remove rust, kaisei stone (of grit 500) for finer shape,
chu-nagura stone (of grit 800) for refining shape, koma-nagura stone (of grit 1500), and
uchigumori stone (of grit 4000). It takes smart guesses and estimation when to use the
stones, so it is better to read more information and follow instructional steps carefully to
guide you through.
8. Now the second stage, the fine polishing. You are now in shiage togi for finer polishing.
Prepare the stones for this stage by hacking paper-thin sizes from uchigumori stone to
produce hazuya stones. Create the polishing powder called nugui powder (either the kit
includes this detail or you have to produce your own). The nugui powder is very fine and it
includes pulverized narutaki stones, tsushima stone, iron ore, etc.
9. Polishing. Unlike in the first stage, the stones have to move against the sword. Use
your thumb in polishing the edge of the sword with hazuya stones.
10. When the tempering line is visible, use the jizuya stone. You can also use sandpaper of
the grit 6000.
11. Use nugui powder. Mix nugui powder with sharpening oil. Moisten a swab of cotton or
cloth with the oil and polish the surface of the blade.
12. Polish the cutting edge by hazuya stone to reveal the temper line (hamon).
13. For the mirror finish, you need to have steel needles, horn powders, and wax ball. Use
the horn powder to wet the surface and run the wax ball to smoothen it. Carefully scratch
the surface of the blade with the steel needles to see the gloss effect.
14. Finish the job by dabbing a white clean cloth over the blade. Remove all moist by
letting in air throughout the blade’s surface. Once done, you can refit the sword back to
the hilt and the scabbard.
The instructions here must be supplemented by expert guidance and comprehensive research.
This is not a detailed guide on Japanese sword sharpening and must be read as a basic
overview of polishing. When in doubt, please refrain from proceeding to any steps. It is
best to hear what the professionals say about the condition of your sword before doing
anything.
Sword care and maintenance
Samurai warriors went to great lengths to look after the condition of their swords. In the
past, anyone who knocked down a katana sword on display or who carelessly handled it could
be fighting a death match. You should take care of your ancient samurai sword—see the
article sword care and maintenance—but let sharpening be the duty of the experts.
Thursday, March 4, 2010
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